FAQ (Frequently-Asked-Questions)

Disclaimer - Some of the tips below are my own findings and are not endorsed by Frank Kirk or anyone else. I have successfully used the modifications listed below, but use them at your own risk/expense - I'm just here to put ideas in your head

Decals/Stickers - I have a selection of red, white, blue and gold Kirk Precision decals and a few Hydro Magnesium ones for the Kirk Revolution. Click here for further details - Kirk Decals.
Kirk Spares - I have a selection of mech hangers, bottom bracket inserts, brake and cable bosses available. Click here for further details - Kirk Spares.
Frame Number - The frame number and date stamp for the Kirk Precision can be found on the non-drive side of the bottom bracket. The frame number is to the right and the circular date stamp is above. See here for a pic. The frame number on the Kirk Revolution is a bit more obvious and can be found on the inside non-drive side of the chainstay.
Buying Advice - Always do a test ride to see if the bike suffers from frame flex - each bike is different. Be wary of frames that have been resprayed as the oven temperatures used to cure the powder coating may have altered its stiffness. Only buy New Old Stock (NOS) Kirk Revolution frames, although this is no gurantee of a flex free frame, Kirk Precision frames tend to be fine as they use a conventional rear triangle.
Buying Advice - The best places to look for a Kirk are on eBay or www.retrobike.co.uk, now and again I will be offered Kirks or know of people who want to sell them. On eBay it's possible to set up an automatic search and any potential bikes for sale will be sent to your Inbox.
What's it worth? - Kirk Precisions sell well and don't suffer from the frame flex of its MTB cousin the Kirk Revolution. Kirk Precisions sell for 150-300 generally and Kirk Revolutions for 50-150, but do bear in mind that these bikes were built in 1988-1992.
Science 101 - The frame is magnesium, so don't use a cutting torch or anything likely to get very hot, only slow speed cutting or handsaws. In powder form it is highly flammable and very difficult to put out.
Resprays - Frame touch-ups can be done using cellulose or acrylic paints (using touch-up kits from Halfords or nail varnish - plenty of colour choice there!).
Resprays - Chemical strippers should not be used, as this will weaken the glue used to hold key parts of the frame together. Instead use shot or aqua-blasting.
Resprays - Oven temperatures to cure the paint should not exceed 180C.
Corrosion - Steel and magnesium are at opposite ends of the element table and contact between the two can cause galvanic corrosion. Most frame parts affected by this have protective aluminium inserts, except the seat tube, so steel seat posts must not be used. Where steel panniers are fixed to the frame, non-metallic washers must be used.
Corrosion - Exposed parts of the frame will develop a whitish powder film, this can be rubbed down gently and then touched-up.
Corrosion - Under some of the paintwork you might get the following worm effect, it's caused by exposed paintwork and the reaction to the weather. It's best left alone and not a structural problem.
Suspension - The Kirk Revolution frames were not designed with suspension forks in mind, the only suitable ones are retro forks with less than 2" or 50mm of travel. The Amp Research or Girvin Vector forks are ideal as they are short travel and lightweight too (plus they really suit the unusual shape of the bike).
Parts - The seat clamp has an internal diameter of 35mm (17mm high)
Parts - The seatpin is 27mm on the Kirk Revolution, but do not use a steel one!
Loose Parts - The glue used to secure some of the components can fail, especially if the frame has been resprayed and cured in an oven. I use Devcon 2-tonne epoxy to glue them back in and it's not failed yet.

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